Porridge Takes Center Stage: A Heartfelt, Witty Dive into Competitive Oat Craftsmanship
If you were hunting for a feature documentary subject, porridge probably wouldn’t cross your mind. Unless, that is, you’re Constantine Costi—the Australian-born opera and theatre director turned documentary filmmaker—who has struck gold with The Golden Spurtle.
I’ll admit I didn’t even know what a spurtle was before watching this film. Now I’ve got one on my Christmas list, hooked by the lore behind the title alone.
According to the Dictionaries of the Scots Language, a spurtle is “a short, round stick used for stirring porridge.” They’re typically wooden, and each autumn in Carrbridge, a Highland village, the World Porridge Making Championships crowns a golden spurtle winner. Costi’s documentary centers on the 2023 competition, marking the contest’s thirtieth anniversary.
Competitors from around the globe descend on Carrbridge each October to craft the finest porridge using only three ingredients: oats, salt, and water.
The 2023 edition carries extra significance as it coincides with the departure of Charlie Miller—longtime Carrbridge unofficial mayor, avid spurtle maker, and self-styled chieftain of the Golden Spurtle since 1994. If the film has a star, Miller is it.
A moving-picture approach to portraiture
Costi and cinematographer Dimitri Zaunders make deliberate cinematic choices that let the story tell itself.
They shoot in a 4:3 aspect ratio, a nod to pre-widescreen visuals that evokes classic 1950s cinema and early television.
There’s no camera movement either. Every scene is captured with a fixed frame, giving the film a composed, almost photographic quality. This style leans on the power of what’s within the frame to captivate, rather than flashy edits or dynamic tracking shots.
Mostly, this works beautifully. The landscapes around Carrbridge are charming in their own right, and the quirks of the contestants imbue the film with real magnetism.
Yet around the midway point, the visual sameness can feel a touch static. That said, moments of humor or unexpected occurrences within the locked frame frequently counterbalance that lull.
A cast of memorable personalities and secret recipes
Across the film, we meet several contestants, including Ian Bishop—the only local to win—and Lisa Williams, known as The Queen of Porridge for back-to-back victories; Nick Barnard, a serious competitor who’s been a finalist seven times; and Toby Wilson, an Australian taco chef returning for another shot.
These figures are as distinctive as the competition itself, and they bring a contagious passion to the screen.
One notable gap, however, is a closer look at the porridge-making mechanics and judging criteria.
What exactly makes a winning bowl? How do the type of oats or the simmer versus boil influence outcomes? Do judges prioritize taste, texture, consistency, or something else entirely?
The closest the film comes to addressing these questions is a brief off-camera moment when Ian Bishop is asked about his oats, and he replies with a coy, “Why would I want to tell you? Other people would get to know.”
This year in Melbourne, Caroline Velik claimed victory in the Speciality Dish category of the 32nd championship, a triumph that adds another dimension to the broader porridge world (Velik’s jaffle—bananas, wattleseed, Davidson plum powder, and Bundaberg rum—made a splash there and set tongues wagging about inventive pairings). She also placed second overall in the main event.
Her comment—that you’d be surprised how many differences three simple ingredients can yield—feels almost tailored for Costi’s documentary, which could have offered more of these flavor-forward variations.
Porridge as a badge of community and craft
It would be easy to dismiss the event as a quirky, small-town eccentricity. Yet a deeper reading reveals a powerful example of community engagement at its best.
A modest hall, a tight-knit volunteer group, and a village with little more than dedication and a love for a humble dish have built a global stage for three basic ingredients. The film captures how such a local tradition has elevated porridge to the world’s spotlight. And yet, like any compelling story, it leaves you craving a bit more depth.
The Golden Spurtle is in cinemas now.
