Salón Tenampa, a century-old icon of mariachi in Mexico City, is celebrating its 100th anniversary, and its rich history is a testament to the enduring spirit of Mexican culture.
Imagine a place where legends like Chavela Vargas and José Alfredo Jiménez once immersed themselves in a three-night tequila-fueled musical journey, blending their voices with the vibrant sounds of mariachi. Fast forward to a recent Wednesday night, and the magic continues as a mariachi band fills the air with Paquita la del Barrio's classic, "Tres veces te engañé."
"You, who left me. I, who waited for you..." Daniel Gómez, seated at a table, closes his eyes, his fist clenched, swaying to the music, his voice filled with emotion: "I, foolishly, was always faithful to you." The atmosphere is electric, with nearly every table occupied, and waiters moving with the precision of orchestra musicians.
Salón Tenampa, the grand emblem of mariachi, is a living legend in the capital. As the mariachis circle Gómez's table, he sways to the violins, accompanied by friends from Los Angeles, who are experiencing this cultural gem for the first time. "The place is super chill. Imagine coming from the other side and experiencing this," Gómez's friend sighs, taking in the large portraits of Pedro Infante and Jorge Negrete, surrounded by other musical greats.
Marcos Montes, 57, a Mexico City native, emphasizes the constant music, wearing his Mariachi Guadalajara uniform, a light beige charro suit with gold details. He explains that while Garibaldi Plaza is filled with mariachis, Tenampa holds a special place as an emblem. Montes joins his bandmates, singing "Estos Celos" by Vicente Fernández: "I looked at you. You were so beautiful, so sensual..." The song resonates with the crowd, and Montes shares that people often request classics like "Mujeres Divinas," "Serenata Huasteca," and "De Qué Manera Te Olvido."
But here's where it gets controversial... The trumpets play the controversial song "Mátalas" by Alejandro Fernández. Manuel Eduardo Toscano, the 73-year-old composer, shares a mischievous anecdote from his early days. Leaving a music studio with the artistic director Jorge Nájera, they ordered birria, but it was too watery, so they pulled a prank, adding a hair to the dish and refusing to pay. Toscano believes Tenampa's importance lies in its role in the history of mariachi, with composers like Don Pepe Guízar writing songs about it, making it famous worldwide.
Fernanda Aguilera, the great-great-granddaughter of the first owner, Juan I. Hernández, shares her perspective. "Tenampa is living history. You experience the identity of flavors, colors, smells, and sounds of a Mexico that seems old but is still very much alive." She believes the establishment's success lies in preserving Mexican traditions and heritage, and promoting the culture of mezcal and tequila.
Saúl Palacios, a 23-year-old employee, agrees, attributing Tenampa's success to renowned visitors and tradition preservation. He highlights the importance of promoting mezcal and tequila heritage, with cocktails like mezcalitas and margaritas, and the unique pomegranate punch, a secret recipe known only to a bartender named Jerry. When it comes to food, Palacios emphasizes the Jalisco essence, with dishes like quesabirrias, birria, pozole, and torta ahogada, and the iconic Tenampa platter, a street food extravaganza.
José Luis Hernández, 61, a harpist with Mariachi Jarocho, has been with the group for 46 years. He describes Tenampa as "indescribable." The music never stops in Plaza Garibaldi or inside Tenampa, with scenes unfolding like still shots: Daniel Gómez singing, an Asian couple dancing, and violins accompanying guitars to perform "La Bikina." The night seems endless, a testament to the enduring spirit of Salón Tenampa.
